Saturday, October 30, 2010

Out of Africa (And Back to New York City)

I have just returned from an amazing week in Africa; Kenya to be specific.  It was a trip I will always remember. The sights, the sounds the friendly warmth of the people - and the incredible juxtaposition of luxurious amenities with the untamed beauty of the African plains.

They say that visiting Africa changes you forever and I for one believe it. I spied on groups of elephants, played with baby cheetahs, and got a personal welcome from a group of Masai warriors!


The trip was orchestrated by Micato Safaris, a family-owned and operated business that has won virtually every travel award available for the quality of their trips. I was immediately taken in by their obvious delight in sharing their home country and culture with us.

After a lengthy flight from New York, we began our African adventure in Nairobi, ensconced at the historic Fairmont, The Norfolk hotel.  Built in 1904, the elegant hotel, hard by the bush, is said to have been the starting point for the development of the city of Nairobi.  Originally designed as a place for weary game hunters to rest and relax, it has since played host to dignitaries from around the world. The hotel's architecture and decor is a glorious mix of colonial and African influences and I could easily picture the ladies and gentleman of Colonial society sipping their drinks on the beautifully appointed out door terrace.

After an amazing welcome reception, I went happily off to bed for some much needed rest. The next morning after a safari briefing from Micato (always important to know how to behave in the midst of wild animals!) we lunched at the residence of Ambassador Michael Ranneberger, the current US Ambassador to Kenya. He is a fascinating man, who has made his life in diplomacy. He is responsible for relations with Somalia and has aided diplomatic efforts in Mogadishu, Cuba and El Salvador. The ambassador was a very gracious host and we had a delicious luncheon.

The next day we headed off into the bush and the majestic plains of the Masai Mara. I was eager to see some elephants and hunt some of the other Big Five animals, armed with my trusty camera.

Thursday, October 28, 2010

Back from the Bush

After two nights we flew to Nanyuki and then drove to the renowned Mt. Kenya Safari Club. First owned by movie star William Holden, and patronized by Bing Crosy and other celebrities, it is a gorgeous property with views of Mt. Kenya.

Despite how much I enjoyed my time in camp, I will admit that I enjoyed having four walls around me again and not hearing the hippos in the night. The club has extensive gardens and it carries on the work of the William Holden foundation, a non-profit that is working to bring back the Mt. Kenya antelope or "bongo". The foundation has an animal orphanage near the hotel, which was where we got to pat the rescued cheetah cubs.

We were lucky to continue to have excellent weather, warm and dry, and relaxing, sightseeing and shopping were the order of the day.

On our final day we took the short flight back to Nairobi and paid a visit to another wonderful non-profit. AmericaShare helps to aid local children and families who have been affected by HIV/AIDS. One of their projects is providing an education for these children and Americans have the opportunity to "adopt" the students and assist with their school uiforms, supplies and other essentials. 

I was able to meet and take photos with the three children I've adopted. Their smiles were so bright and they were so open and happy, it was truly an inspiration. It is hard to imagine what hardships they have been through and what a difference the AmericaShare foundation is making in their lives. The ability to give back to the people of Kenya in even a small way felt very powerful and it was a perfect way to end my adventures in Africa.

Sunday, October 24, 2010

Meeting the Masai

My home for the next two days would be a tented camp in the Masai Mara, a vast game reserve owned by the Masai people. I was lucky to visit in October, since the weather is mild and the rainy season has just ended, leaving the vegetation green over the vast plains of the reserve.


Now, too put it mildy, I am not the first person in line when someone suggests camping, but as it turned out my tent was a brilliant mix of rustic luxury with polished wood floors and a handsome raised bed, curtained by a swath of billowing white curtains. Okay, I can camp like this!


During our afternoon game drive I did see elephants as well as these gentle giraffes, foraging for leaves right next to our jeep. It was astonishing to see them so close and in their natural habitat.




We visited a Masai village and were given a traditional welcome by the elders of the tribe. Clad in bright red robes, they chant as they perform an intricate sequence of steps. The culmination of the ritual is a series of jumps - feet side by side and legs together, they jump straight into the air, rising higher with each jump. Despite their reputation as fierce warriors, the dance felt full of both power and joy to me.

That night I had another unusual experience, which was a bit unsettling to a city dweller like me. I've lived in Manhattan long enough that I dont hear the sirens or the cab horns anymore. However, the group of hippos wading in the river nearvby, I heard. And it made me a bit uneasy. It all turned out fine and I woke to another beautiful morning on the African plains.